Mariah Leonard on Finding Her Confidence Through ‘Being in the Moment’

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Photographer and beauty expert Mariah Leonard’s work is equal parts dreamy and striking. The Florida-raised, Los Angeles-based creative, who has shot for brands such as Chanel Beauty, Valentino Beauty, Costa Brazil, Poosh, Nars, Fenty and Margiela, didn’t always aspire to become a photographer. “Ever since I was a kid, I wanted to become a writer at a magazine in New York,” she explains. But after giving birth to her firstborn in college (which Leonard describes as “the best surprise ever”), she realized she might have to pivot. “Back then, most internships were unpaid, so it was impossible for me [to survive],” she says. But with encouragement from her mother, Leonard was able to create her own path within the beauty industry.. “I began creating op ed-style makeup content on YouTube, and began flying to New York any chance I got in order to network,” she explains. “I was there all the time for any event I could afford to go to.”

In 2017, she moved to Los Angeles and began focusing more on creative direction and photography. “I currently photograph anything beauty-related for my own social media, as well as for several brand clients who commission my work,” she says. Most recently, she started a weekly Substack newsletter called on rotation, where she talks all things lifestyle and beauty, from what she’s wearing and books she’s reading, to conversations on beauty culture and body image. Leonard credits her determined mentality and work ethic to her mother. “She’s always pushed me to believe that no dream is too big or unrealistic,” Leonard says. “Without her, I don’t think I would have had the self-confidence to move out to Los Angeles, or put myself out there in the ways that I have.”

These days, when she’s not shooting for beauty’s biggest brands, she finds time for self-care via equestrian training with her horse, Rook, facial sculpting with the NuFace device and hiking. Below, Leonard shares more about her beauty routines, her career journey and her biggest beauty inspirations.

By Mariah Leonard

RI:
The past few years have changed so much of our everyday lives. What do you believe about beauty now that you didn’t before?
ML:
With having more time during lockdown to reflect, I now feel I’m more cognizant of the way the industry pressures women and feminine-presenting people to fit certain molds in order to be deemed “worthy” or “valid” on some level. I’m unlearning applying those pressures to myself, and conforming less to that type of warped beauty-culture narrative in my own work.
RI:
Do you recall your first beauty memory? 
ML:
I was maybe 7 or 8 and I was in the car with mom. It was super early in the morning and she was parked outside of my school putting makeup on before dropping me off. She was using this cobalt blue eyeliner along her waterline, and I remember thinking it was so cool and different. I asked her why she chose that color, and she told me she’d seen Princess Diana wearing it on TV and wanted to try it. I remember from that point on, I was always looking at the makeup people wore and trying to decide what I’d like to pull from their style to make my own. 
RI:
Where do you find your creative inspiration?
ML:
Always from the past. I love fashion magazines from the ’70’s, ’80s and ’90s. I saw this Anjelica Huston spread from the early ’70s the other day and it was so ahead of its time. I also love going to the Beverly Hills Library and looking through all the old fashion books. I can spend an entire afternoon buried in those books and getting inspired.

“Feeling beautiful depends on your mindset.”

RI:
Your photos are stunning. What can you share about your process? How did you learn to create this amazing content?
ML:
I taught myself everything I know when it comes to photography, lighting, set design, etc. I read a lot of books, and still do, to try to learn new techniques. I’m currently reading In the Blink of an Eye by Walter Murch to learn more about editing for emotion and feeling, instead of solely for technical reasons, which I think is important working in beauty.   It’s actually so hard for me to put my process into words; the only way I can describe it is that I feel compelled to do what I’m doing. I just start doing it and the rest flows!
RI:
What are some things that are currently bringing you joy?
ML:
My horse is for sure a huge source of my happiness. I landed a big job last year and was finally able to buy him. He was really successful in his time at the track — someone paid half a million dollars for him at one point in his career. His sire and grandsire are super famous and he just has no clue! I also find a lot of joy in spending time with my family, my two closest friends and exploring the city. I’m also really happy anytime I’m writing. I love it so much.
RI:
Are you currently reading any other good books?
ML:
I’m currently finishing up both Beauty Sick by Renee Engeln and Blue Nights by Joan Didion.

By Mariah Leonard

RI:
What attracted you to makeup originally? How has your relationship to it changed over time? 
ML:
I think I was originally attracted to makeup in the same way many other people are, in that I liked the way it made me feel. Looking back, I’ve really never worn makeup for anyone but myself… nothing has changed!
RI:
What are your top five beauty essentials? 
ML:
Sleep is the most important for me, I try to always get a full night of sleep. I notice such a huge difference in the way I look and feel when I’m getting enough rest. Sunscreen and tretinoin come next for me, I use the former every day and the latter twice a week — my skin has never been more even. Makeup-wise, I can’t live without a nude-brown lip liner or volumizing mascara.
RI:
What are some of your go-to tricks for makeup application? 
ML:
The most pivotal for me has to be skin prep. I did not used to subscribe to skin prepping and then one day I was working in front of the camera on set and my skin was prepped, in every sense of the word, by the makeup artist. My makeup looked shockingly better than it usually did. I always take the time now to really spend a full minute cleansing my skin, really working my moisturizer in. Sometimes I’ll do a mask if I have time. It makes such a huge difference.

“Looking back, I’ve really never worn makeup for anyone but myself.”

RI:
What is your skin care regimen like, both morning and night?
ML:
Very basic, but effective. Morning and night, I cleanse with Vanicream’s cleanser. In the morning, I use Honest Beauty Deep Hydration Face Cream or Shani Darden’s Weightless Oil-Free Moisturizer, followed by La Roche Posay’s Anthelios sunscreen. In the evening, I’ll usually go a little further and do a mask or treatment. Lately, it’s been Ranavat’s Resurfacing Saffron Mask. I use the NuFace every other evening, and tretinoin two times per week in the evenings.
RI:
What’s your hair care routine?
ML:
Even more basic <laughs>! I’m very particular about the health of my hair, so I try to never heat-style it — maybe just a few times a year. I like it to look shiny, heavy and silky at all times. For cleansing, I use Briogeo or Herbal Essences. And for masking, I use the Amika Soulfood Mask, which is absolutely amazing if you have drier hair.
RI:
How do you care for your nails?
ML:
I only use Essie or OPI, almost always red, and always oval shaped!

By Mariah Leonard

“I’m unlearning applying those pressures to myself, and conforming less to that type of warped beauty-culture narrative in my own work.”

By Mariah Leonard

RI:
What’s your longest-running beauty routine? Why do you swear by it? 
ML:
My longest running beauty routine has to be my signature makeup look. It’s just light foundation, light concealer, a bit of strategic bronzing, soft black shadow blended into the top and bottom lashes, a touch of sienna-brown shadow diffused on the lids, always a dark brow gel and blackest black mascara, and a soft nude-brown lip to tie it all together.
RI:
What’s your go-to wellness routine?
ML:
This year I was finally able to readjust back into a sense of normalcy post-pandemic. I get up around 7 a.m. most days and have a matcha or coffee and usually avocado toast with an egg. Then I’ll head to the barn to spend time with or exercise my horse and make sure he’s happy and comfortable. After I come home, I shower and usually answer emails or begin working. I try to fit in a hike or run at some point during the week, too. I also always try to walk everywhere I can.
RI:
Who is your biggest beauty inspiration?
ML:
Diane von Furstenberg is one for sure. Shee is so glamorous and I still die over her ’70s style — both fashion and beauty. I also love Pamela Anderson, Donyale Luna and Brooke Shields.

RI:
What would someone never guess about you? 
ML:
I’m very shy. I’m still trying to learn to cope with it. I feel like everyone always thinks I’m lying when I say this because I’m so social for work, but I just want to be clear that I’m dying inside the entire time.
RI:
What is one goal you have for the future? 
ML:
I have so many, but one pivotal one I’ve always had is to write for a publication in New York, or become a beauty editor in that same space. I would love to be a beauty writer. It’s my first love.

“When I’m able to get out of my head and be in the moment, I feel confident and doubt myself so much less.”

By Mariah Leonard

RI:
Where do you see yourself in five years?
ML:
I see myself achieving my goals. I see myself in the city during the week and in the country with my horse on the weekends. I see myself having more time with my mom. And, hopefully, I see myself living less constrained and more freely with myself — more accepting of all the facets of who I am.
RI:
When do you feel most confident?
ML:
I feel most confident in myself when I’m not thinking about myself, if that makes sense? When I’m just existing and in the moment. I’ve always struggled with anxiety, and I get in my head so easily about the littlest things and then my night is ruined. When I’m able to just get out of my head and be in the moment, I feel confident and doubt myself so much less.

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